| "There
is no American food. When we begin to list American foods, either
we talk about regional things like lobster or shrimp Creole, or
we talk about spaghetti and pizza and hot dogs...One could argue
it's what makes us great. The fact that we don't have a cuisine
is a measure of our democracy and of our ethnic heterogeneity."
-- Sidney Mintz, Anthropologist
Some of the strongest influences on US cuisine came from African
slaves, the people who least intended to be here. American food
is inconceivable without barbecue in its many variations, all
kinds of fritters and a mess of greens. Indeed Africans brought
with them important techniques including smoking meats, frying
grains and legumes into fritters, boiling leafy green vegetables,
and making up hot, spicy sauces. Since African-Americans ran the
kitchens on Southern plantations, they played a major role in
molding the renowned cuisine of the South. Years later when railroads
began to cross the continent, Black men ran the galleys and carried
that influence north and west.
Regional cuisines emerged
as settlers -- willing and otherwise -- modified their culinary
traditions to suit local climates. The simple, sturdy foods of
the Northeast reflect more than any other the English origins
of the country. But meats and vegetables imported from the homeland
merged with local ingredients such as turkey, maple syrup, lobster,
clams, cranberries and always corn to provide delicious specialties
such as Indian pudding, Boston brown bread, clam chowder and Maine
boiled lobster.
Southern settlers, also of
English stock, confronted a kinder climate and more of them benefited
from the assistance of Black hands in the kitchen. The average
farmer's wife could hardly spare the time needed for the multiple
dishes that made up a plantation meal. To this day no Southern
dinner is complete without numerous side dishes including breads,
biscuits, salads and condiments -- preferably home made.
Of all Southern dishes, fried
chicken achieved the most popularity outside the region -- to
the extent that entire fast food chains have sprung up serving
debased versions. At home, Southerners continue to use a great
deal of pork. Hams from Virginia are universally recognized to
be the country's finest. Bacon and salt pork appear as flavoring
agents with greens and beans. Ham biscuits are a classic accompaniment
to breakfast and dinner and ham with red-eye gravy is a regional
piÈce de rÈsistance, though the debate swirls on
as to whether the best red-eye is made with water or black coffee.
Sally's
Place
|
Coffee
Houses